Malaysia
June 23, 2010
From a Peninsular Point of View
Primary rainforests, exotic wildlife and empty beaches – what more could you want from a holiday destination? Jim Stewart ventures out of town to areas with more spice than a Malaysian laksa
The joys of travelling the east coast of Malaysia is hardly a secret, but compared to the congested beaches of Langkawi and Penang on the other side of the Peninsular, this area is a positive paradise. With so much variety of landscape (tropical bush, plantations, towns and stunning coastlines) and the relative ease with which you can negotiate the terrain, you don’t have to book too much annual leave to be able to sample some of the best that Malaysia has to offer.
Known to backpackers for years, the states of Pahang and Terengganu have had a steady stream of low-budget travellers for several decades. Fortunately, unlike similarly beautiful retreats like Samui and Phuket, the stampede of developers hasn’t materialised. That’s not to say that there aren’t plenty of options of where you can stay once you arrive. If you’re a backpacker yourself, then make your way to Cherating where there is healthy rivalry between guesthouses. The atmosphere is such that unlike some parts of the country, you won’t feel out of place guzzling down a beer or two or showing off your new bikini.
At the other end of the beach, next to the Giant turtle sanctuary and hatchery (these sea reptiles still frequently make there way up onto the sand to lay there eggs, despite the culls over the years) is the more family-orientated and newly-renovated Club Med Resort. A stalwart of hospitality in the area, the hotel and entertainment complex has been in operation for more than two decades. Its facilities such as trapeze, bungee bounce, sailing and great new restaurants make it as good as any resort in the region. Soon to open a new spa centre, the hotel is sandwiched between the golden beach and thick monkey-inhabited jungle. The heady concoction of the sea breeze and the heavy jungle atmosphere results in a strange mixture of sounds and smells without compare.
If you fancy taking a break from the mainland, you can’t get a more stunning location than Palau Tioman. The island that was the set for the 1950s movie-musical hit South Pacific and has always received nothing but good press. Unlike other beaches in Pahang state, Tioman’s can seem busy if you’re unlucky enough to arrive during holiday season but it’s still worth a trip to this turtle-shaped paradise.
Away from the sea, further inland, is Taman Negara National Park. Negara is seriously big at 4,300 square kilometres and spreads across three states. Wildlife is prolific but to be honest, as is many travellers’ experience in Asia, “wildlife” normally takes the form of a stick insect or sparrow. But you never know, you may get lucky and spot a tapir, an articulated python (as my guide put it!) or some bizarre looking birds. Don’t miss out on a boat trip down one of the many rivers which will give you a real sense of how vast and preserved this land truly is.
ACTION-PACKED PAHANG
If the cool mountain air coupled with peace and tranquillity is your cup of tea, make your way to our rich hill stations that offer wholesome family activities.
Genting Highlands is popularly known as Malaysia’s City of Entertainment and offers adults a fun carefree time at its casinos and children a memorable time at the theme park. Be mesmerised by the abundant fruit, vegetable, flower and tea plantations in Cameron Highlands. For peaceful serenity and unpolluted fresh air and lush vegetation, Fraser’s Hill is the place to be.
For a French experience, Bukit Tinggi is a must. Colmar French Village, a beautiful replica of its namesake, offers a hotel, sidewalk cafes as well as night shows.
Extend your stay and make the trip to Kenong Rimba Park. Enjoy the natural surroundings of cascading waterfalls and abundant flora and fauna. There are several caves to be explored as well.
Tasik Bera, one of two major natural bodies of freshwater in Malaysia, houses an estimated 300 species of flora, 200 species of birds and more than 95 species of fish. Delve into the mystery behind the awesome Lake Chini. Empangan Jaleh, a recreational lake promises total relaxation. Challenge yourself and scale Gunung Tahan, the highest peak in Peninsular Malaysia.
Rough it and camp at Gunung Tapis Park that offers a number of activities. No visit to Pahang is complete without a trip to Endau-Rompin National Park. Hailed as one of the world’s oldest tropical rainforests, it has remained undisturbed in its natural state. Encounter some of the most magnificent cave chambers in the region, with strangely formed stalagmites and stalactites at Kota Gelanggi Cave.
If white-water rafting gives you an adrenalin rush, then make a note of Jeram Besu Rapid and see if it lives up to its reputation as one of the most challenging in the country.
Balok Beach is the hotspot for wind surfers while Teluk Chempedak Beach is excellent for water sport activities like sailing, surfing, skiing and sunbathing.
And no holiday is complete without a shopping spree. In Kuantan you have a choice of major malls; Teruntum Complex, Kuantan Parade, Berjaya Megamall and Kuantan Plaza as well as night markets within the town’s various districts.
