8 Oct 2024 By AK
CHANEL – The SS 2025 RTW collection
2025 春夏時裝系列
CHANEL 最近出任大皇宮主要贊助人，中殿主要入口的牌匾亦刻上 Gabrielle Chanel 的名 字。此際 CHANEL 回歸大皇宮舉行 2025 春夏時裝展，在中殿巨型玻璃屋頂之下自由飛 翔，續寫 CHANEL 與大皇宮的深厚情誼。
由 CHANEL 時裝創意工作室構思的春夏系列是一個講述飛翔的故事:在日光遍灑的中殿 中央，像魔法變出一個鳥舍般的建築，那巨型開放式鳥籠，與當年 Gabrielle Chanel 的 一位女裁縫送給她的一籠小鳥的往事呼應，後來 CHANEL 一個著名廣告亦用上這鳥籠意 念。巨型的裝置、優雅的線條、籠條的間距，一切如夢幻境;四周擺放椅子和長凳， 就像公園或花園佈局，此情此境令人浮想聯翩沉醉其中。
模特兒魚貫登場，如上演一場優雅飄逸芭蕾舞:雪紡斗篷、開衩半截裙、透明刺繡襯 衫裙、闊腳鬆身長褲、珠片及流蘇牛仔褲以及彩色羽毛印花乾濕褸，如譜奏一首歌頌 精緻輕盈和優美動感的旋律。
春夏系列以自由飛翔的意念，向 Gabrielle Chanel 及當年努力擺脫社會固有規條束縛的 前衛女性致敬:當中包括 Chanel 密友、敢作敢為的演員兼著名作家 Colette、咆哮二十 年代 “女男孩”風潮的時尚女子，以及改變社會觀念的女飛行員等等。小飛俠翻領飛行 員外套、黑白羅緞飛行裝、鑲領帶形嵌片襯色套裝、白衣領制服式連身裙、粉紅色或 藍色斜紋軟呢造型、粉色針織、與時裝展場景呼應的黑色針織半截裙以及發亮的厚底 鞋，吹起一股自由之風。
時裝創意工作室重新演繹 CHANEL 經典套裝、小黑裙、斜紋軟呢、針織、菱格紋手袋及 雙色鞋之餘，亦為 2025 春夏時裝系列注入日與夜的顏色及變化多端的天空色彩，在大 皇宮中殿展開一趟恣意飛翔的旅程。
Spring-Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection
The main entrance to the Grand Palais now bears the name of Gabrielle Chanel. The Spring-Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection marks CHANEL’s return to the Grand Palais, of which the House is the Grand Patron. Symbolising this reunion, this new show spreads its wings beneath the glass roof of the Nave.
The story presented by the Creation Studio today is all about flying up in the air. At the centre of this cathedral of light, in the heart of the Nave, this gigantic aviary-esque space, an open, monumental birdcage has been placed as if by magic. One structure reflecting and echoing the other. The small cage hosting a couple of birds that was given to Gabrielle Chanel by one of her seamstresses and that has been reinterpreted in a famous commercial also comes to mind. The extraordinary dimensions of this décor-object, the grace of its lines, even the immense spacing of its bars, render it phantasmagorical. Chairs and benches have been set out to resemble a park or a garden. Here, we can breathe, we can dream.
So begins a ballet of ethereal liberty. Chiffon capes, slit skirts, embroidered transparent shirt dresses, wide-cut and fluid trousers, sequinned and fringed jeans, trench coats with a multicoloured feathers print come together in a choreographic ode to delicacy, lightness and movement.
The collection is a tribute to women who freed themselves from the cumbersome gaze of society, just like Gabrielle Chanel. This flight is dedicated to them. We think of music-hall artist and literary figure Colette, to whom Gabrielle Chanel was a close friend, the garçonne movement that marked the Roaring Twenties, but also the aviatrixes who spoke out and helped change mentalities. Aviator jackets with Peter Pan collars, flight suits in black or white faille, suits with tone-on-tone tie-shape inserts, uniform dresses with white collars, total looks in pink or blue tweed, pastel knits, black skirt knitted as a tribute to the architecture of the venue and sparkling platform shoes: a wind of freedom blows through the collection.
In revisiting the House codes – the suit and the little black dress, tweed and jersey, the quilted bag and the two-tone shoes – the Creation Studio presents a Spring-Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection in the colours of day, of night and the ever-changing sky… A soaring voyage in the Nave of the Grand Palais.
