Jil Sander FW2025 Collection | Milan

Women’s & Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 Collection

A bright metaphor of love.

Pitch black. The floor and curtains surrounding the catwalk are the threshold between what we see, the figures clearly cut into the foreground, and what we are invited to imagine. Recomposed by Benji B, the sounds and voices rise as in a dream, a slow vortex, reassuring and deliberate. Like the black leather jacket and the steel studs and eyelets that punctuate the garments throughout – the black, white, and red pointy shoes and boots. The light is cold; hyper-real.

Lucie and Luke Meier have envisioned a collection, and a staging, that turns darkness – the hues that seem to soak our times – into light, into the brilliance they invite us to capture. An inverted breathing space, where black becomes seamlessly light. As the pretty floral print that emerges gradually from a densely black, lean, long dress, from a trench, or a shirt. Like the ribbons that add a textural dimension to an immaculate cream gown or the feathers and leaves gently springing from an English tailoring wool. Elevating the quotidian to sartorial perfection. With raw cuts.

An aesthetic experience that makes the tension between opposites, different textures and touches, the Meiers so knowingly pursue and arrange, palpable.

Urban and nocturnal, tough and decorative, all garments are equally lush, glitzy, and real. A nod to the rebellious, inverted nostalgia of the New Wave, to the free appropriation of the codes of tradition. Whatever sparks Lucie and Luke’s imagination turns into the tender desire to be beautiful, glamorous, and refined.

The long sequin stripes, silver and black, hand-applied to straight and pleated dresses, in knitted velvet, taffeta, and silk, and the kilts (most skirts are so, for both women and men), are airy and sharp. The black tipped and blue shearling fur coats and collars are plush. And so is the hand-crafted, ingeniously woven alpaca and cashmere knitwear, shrunken or oversized.

A diversity that is complemented by the varied and lavish clutches, handbags, shoppers, and shoulder bags with adjustable straps. Small and large, strong, sculptural, and bold.

The construction of masculine jackets and coats plays with severity – but plays. There is always something that makes things different from what they initially seem: a studded belt, a collar, a zip, an insert of lace.

Silver, burgundy, pure red, lake blue, and lilac sprinkle the mainly black, white and grey colour palette. Turning darkness inside out, from black to light, from matte to glossy, from solid to transparent, traversing the forms that define the archetypes of women and men’s wear. Merging sensitivity and the self-defensiveness of sleaze.

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